Permanent wave apparatus and method



Nov. 2; 1937. P. c. RILLING 2,097,702

' PERMANENT WAVE APPARATUS AND METHOD Filed June 14, 1935 /A pg ACil! Patented Nov. 2, 1937 PERMANENT WAVE APPARATUS AND METHOD Paul C. Billing, Minneapolis, Minn., assignor to Rilling-Arnao Company,

Minneapolis, Minn., a

corporation of Minnesota Application June 14, 1935, Serial No; 26,601

'7 Claims.

This invention relates to the art of producing and waves upon human hair the production of the waves upon the hair of a more particularly to -called permanent human head.

My invention has for an object the provision of a simple and highly efficient apparatus for effecting permanent waves of a more perfect and natural form` than heretofore have been produced and with less discomfort to the subject.

Another object of my invention is the provision of simple and economical apparatus for permanent waving which will permit of the ,Croquignole type wherein an eicient clamping device is provided for gripping a flat cooperates with the curling lock of hair and rod, heater and pad which are associated therewith and which furthermore provides a means for permitting the spreading and arrangement of the individual hairs after the clamp has to produce the most efficient results been initially applied and which,

clamping the same together ment and individual pulling of to prevent displacethe hairs.

It is a further object to provide apparatus of the class described strains being imposed which will prevent unequal upon the several individual hairs of a lock, equalizing said strains and preventing what is termed in the beauty art as pull burn.

More specically, it is an object, in conjunction with efficient heating mechanism and curling rods,

to provide a two-stage clamp adapted to uniformly grip ailat lock of hair in such manner that in one-locked position of the clamp the individual hairs may be spread or arranged as desired with the clamp applied and in the second locked stage the hairs will be gether in a uniform manner.

securely clamped to- A further object is the provision of a clamp provided with aprons at the sides of the protector for delecting steam discharge outwardly and upwardly and preventing impingement thereof against the scalp.

Still another object lis the provision of a procompressible, resilient naclamp is properly applied be placed upon the cooperates with the automatically equalthe scalp.

A further object is the provision of a new and improved method of waving nai-r which is highly elfective in results and facilitates handling and waving of the hair on a human head.

These and other objects and advantages of the invention will be more fully set forth in the following description made in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which like reference characters refer to similar parts throughout the several views, and in which:-

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of an embodiment of my apparatus assembled and shown in operative position on a lock of human hair;

Fig. 2 is an end elevation of the same;

Fig. 3 is a vertical section, on a somewhat larger scale, taken approximately on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a plan view showing my improved protector clamp applied in the first clamping stage to a at lock of hair;

Fig. 5 is a similar plan view showing the clamp in the second locking stage;

Fig. 6 is a detail View showing the manner in which a suitable embodiment of curling rod is applied to the outer end of the lock of hair for spiral winding thereof, and

Fig. 7 is a, cross section of a somewhat different form of protector pad incorporated in connection with the clamp.

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated, I provide a clamping device indicated as an entirety by the letter C, a winding rod R adapted for detachable mounting upon said clamp, and a heater assembly H adapted to grip a lock of hair wound upon said rod and be connected thereby with the rod and clamp.

The clamp C, as shown, comprises a pair of clamping bars Ii] and II, respectively, of opposed channel construction hinged together as shown at their right hand ends by means of a small upstanding bracket I2 having an attachment base or ilange I2a which is pivoted by a rivet I3 to clamping bar I I. Clamping bar I I has mounted therein as clearly shown in Fig. 4, a compressible clamping pad III which is detachably held in a grooved holder 8 pivoted intermediate its ends (and, as shown, at a point nearer the right hand end) to the channel clamping bar I I. The clamping pad is thus swingably adjustable through short angulation relative to the clamping bar II for a purpose later to be described. A leaf spring 9, in much the shape of a hair pin, is interposed between holder 8 and the back of channel shaped clamping bar I I, urging the left hand end of the clamping pad outwardly. Clamping pad I4, as shown, is integrally formed with a protector pad, Ma which extends below clamping bar Y each of the sides thereof.

il and is made of compressible material, such as sponge rubber, and as shown carries a series of depending and staggered lugs Mb for engagement with the scalp of the subject. The clamping surface of pad it is defined by a straight relatively wide edge extending from the upper surface of the clamping pad portion to the lower portion of the protector pad Ma. A flexible and relatively thin apron l le is integrally formed, as shown, with the clamping pad and protector, and extends outwardly some distance outer edge of clamping bar lll, and also some distance beyond the ends of said bar.

Clamping bar l@ is provided with an integrally constructed compressible pad similar to the pad M having the upper clamping portion i 5 which is seated in the channel of bar l!) and having the protector portion ld, the depending teats or lugs E529 for engagement with lthe scalp and the apron 45o of similar construction to the apron |40. The clamping edges of the two pads I4 and l5 are substantially fiat and are opposed.

The left hand ends of clamping bars I6 and il are provided with a twostage clamping lock comprising hinged plate l5 one end of which is pivoted to the left hand end of clamping'bar l5 and which forms a part of an upstanding bracket lia for receiving an end of the winding rod. The locking plate I6 carries at its free end a bell crank tightening lever l'! provided with a projecting pin lla at its shorter end, which Vpin extends beyond both the upper and lower surfaces of lever il for engagement with the left hand bifurcated end of clamping bar i l which is formed with pin-receiving hooks Ila. Said pin works in an arcuate slot llbI formed in the plate i6. In the position shown in Fig. 4 the clamping device is retained or locked in the rst stage position, clamping bar l l havingrbeen pushed inwardly by ringer pressure at its free end and the pin ilo engaged in the hook shaped retaining portions ila. In Fig. 5 the look is shown in second stage or tight clamping position, the lever i7 having been swung toward the outer longitudinal side of clamping plate Il beyond dead center position. A

Winding rod R is o-f more or less conventional construction being tapered inwardly rather sharply from both the outer ends of the spool i9 and having a hair retaining clip 2i) hinged to the right hand end thereof and conformed to t the tapered Yshape of the spool and with awide central portion alla for engaging the end of a lock.

knob or handle 2l is xed to the right hand end of the rod and a squared connection element 22 connected with the left hand end, provision being made for the turning of spool 2o relative to member 22 in one direction, while being prevented from turning in the opposite direction. The squared end 22 of the winding rod may be non-rotatively engaged with a slot in the' upper end of the bracket ma, while the diminished cylindrical portion 2id at the right hand end of the rod may be rotatively engaged in the slot located in the upper end of bracket I2.

` My improved heater unit includes a longitudinal body member j2li which may, if desired, be l constructed of bakelite or other dielectric material having embedded or positioned therein a suitable heating element 25 which element ex-A tends longitudinally of member 24 from points adjacent theends thereof. Body Z4 is encased by `metal shell or casing 25 having hinge elements integrally form-ed therewith and disposed at Casing 25 is conr.the casing 26 is beyond the longitudinal structed from heat conductive metal, such as aluminum and the under surface is electroplated or coated with dark pigment material, preferably black in color applied in such a way as to produce a dull nish rather than a glazed nish. I have discovered that by electro-plating or coating the under surface of casing 2S in such manner, the transmission of heat and radiation of heat or emissivity of heat from the bottoni of very materially improved. An electro-plating method known to the trade as alumilite has been very successfully utilized in the construction of my heater unit. Emissivity has been increased from that obtained from the plain metal of approximately to 23% to 80% to 90% when the Linder surface of the casing 26 is so treated. This enables, in my device, heating elements of much less wattage to be used, making a reduction of substantially 35% in the wattage of the heating element, with, of course, the attendant saving of current on the plurality of heating units used in one permanent Wave machine.

The body forms the top or upper portion of the heating chamber and a pair of elongated segmental sides 2 of the length of body 2li are hinged to the side edges thereof completing the heating chamber. Sides 27 may be in the form of metal plates or arcuate cross section, as shown in Fig. 3, having flanged ends 27a of substantially horn shape which cooperate with vthe sector shaped flanges 2Gby of the shell 26 to restrict the openings at the ends of the heating chamber, the openings dened by flanges Zia and 25o being substantially circular when the hinged sides are closed and disposed eccentrically 0f the exterior periphery of the heating chamber.

A pair of upstanding posts 28 are secured by suitable means to the top of shell 26, one being disposed adjacent each end thereof and are of split construction made from insulating material to receive the electrical service wires 29 which pass therethrough and are electrically connected with the heating element 25. The upper portions of posts 28 are connected by a rod 3G having mounted thereon a spacing sleeve 3l and a hinge pintle 32 extends between the upper extremities of said posts upon which are mounted a pair of cooperating actuating levers 33 disposed one on each side of the device and preferably constructed from insulating material and having nger grips 33a formed therein. A pair of upstanding arms 34 are secured to the medial portion of the external sides of heater sides 2?, one for each of said sides, the upper portions of which arey off-set inwardly and terminate in outwardly curved ends 34a which are engaged beneath the nger grip levers 33.' A bent spring 35 of substantially hair-'pin shape has its medial portion looped to surround hinge pintle '32 and the free ends thereof urge 'arms 34 and .consequently finger grip levers 33 in outward directions thereby normally holding the sides 2l of the heater inwardly as shown in Figs. 2 and 3.

Operation In effecting a so-called permanentwave with my improved apparatus, a lock of hair is rlrst divided from the head of hair, combed into nat form and the clamping device C is then applied with the protector pad in contact with the scalp.

In initially applying the clamping device the operator presses the same against the scalp with sucient pressure to somewhat compress the protector pad While she forces the clamping bars lil and l l together by iinger pressure securing the lock in the iirst stage position by engaging pin lla with the hooks l la disposed at the left hand end of clamping bar l l as shown in Fig. 4. When the clamp is so applied the cooperating clamping pads iii and l will lightly engage the multiplicity of hairs constituting the lock and because of the pivotal connection of clamp pad holder 3 with clamping bar l l two clamping pads will be relationship.

When the clamping device is so initially applied and the operators pressure of the device against the scalp released the elasticity and compressibility of the material constituting protector pads la and lea, causes the clamp to move outwardly slightly from the scalp thereby putting uniform tension on all of the individual hairs.

The operator next distributes and arranges the individual hairs as uniformly and smoothly as possible within the clamping device, whereafter tightening lever Il is swung to the secondary locking position as shown in Fig. 5 past dead center, locking the clamping elements tightly about the re-arranged lock with adequate clamping pressure to prevent slippage or movement oi the individual hairs relatively to the clamping pads.

The outer end of the lock of hair is then connected with the central portion of the winding rod R, the extremity of said lock being disposed between the retaining clip 2li and the rod and the winding of the hair is then performed in spiral fashion on the rod, the convolutions of the lock of hair over-lying one another successively and of course being of increasing width from the end of the lock toward the scalp.

The rod R with the lock of hair tightly wound thereon is next placed in the brackets l2 and ita, the squared end 22 of the rod being disposed in the enlarged slot of bracket ita while the diminished cylindrical portion Zia at the opposite end of the rod is disposed for rotative movement in the slot of bracket i2. The loci; of hair is further tightened cr wound with the rod connected with brought into parallel Y the clamping device by further turning of the handle or knob 2i. A permanent wave pad or treating pad of conventional structure which contains suitable treating fluid is next wrapped about the wound lock and rod as shown in Fig. 3 in conentional manner, and the heating unit is then clamped about the rod, lock and treating pad by first retracting the sides 21 of the heater by finger pressure of the iinger gripping levers 33a, surrounding the enveloped wound lock with the heating chamber and releasing the nger grips 33a.

It will be observed that due to the shape and construction of the sides and body of the heater proper the cylindrical enveloped lock of hair is substantially enclosed, the end flange construction of the heater chamber members engaging the enveloping pad and making escape of steam or entrance of air very slight. When all of the hair on the head desired to be waved is separated into locks and prepared in the manner described with reference to the first lock, the electrical heating circuits through the several heating elements are closed and heat is applied in conventional manner for the requisite time and the apparatus is removed.

During the heating period the subject is avoided considerable discomfort due to the outwardly protruding aprons ille and 85C' on the clamping device which deect any currents or radiated heat the clamping surfaces of theA from the heater proper. Pull burn is avoided during the employment of my apparatus since the individual hairs are uniformly tensioned and since there are a multiplicity of such hairs in each lock and pulling tension is uniform and very slight on each individual hair and is equalized through the elasticity and compressibility of the protector pad and through the distribution of the hairs and equalization of strains at the time the arrangement of the individual hairs is made with the clamping device loosely locked inthe first stage.

From the foregoing description it will be seen that my improved method of waving hair upon a human head constitutes, generally speaking, in dividing off from the head of hair a fiat lock, initially gripping that lock disposed naait/isc with a clamp disposed adjacent the scalp and exerting only suiiicient gripping force to retain the clamp to the lock and maintain the arrangement of individual hairs; then re-arranging and distributing the individual hairs uniformly while the same are initially gripped and thereafter securing the clamp in the second locking stage to tightly gripthe rearrangedhairs; then winding the lock from its end to a point near the clamp upon a rod and applying the hair treating solution and heating the wound hair with a suitable means, such as the improved heater unit construction disclosed herein.

Extensive actual use has shown that highly improved results in producing a natural waviness of the hair through so-called permanent waves have been effected by my improved apparatus and my improved method. Pull burn is avoided, the scalp is protected from uncomfortable heat and no separate guard or scalp pad is required. It will further be noted that the protector pad and clamping pad members integrally formed can be removed for sterilization or cleaning.

in 7 l illustrate a somewhat different form of protector pad which I really prefer in most instances to the specific form disclosed in Figs. l to 6. This rform of pad is identical with the form first disclosed, with the following exceptions: The staggered lugs or teats ilib of the nrst form are eliminated and in place thereof a pair of soft, elastic, preferably sponge rubber protector pads 3i are cemented or otherwise secured to lthe under side of the pad portions lffia extending the full length of the pad and` having preferably beveled sides as clearly shown in Fig. '7. The inner and opposed sides ci the sponge rubber pads 3T being rather sharply beveled form a converging entrance for the hairs and facilitate arrangement of the individual hairs within the clamping device when the lock is in the initial or rst stage. As in the form previously described, when the clamping device is initially applied to a at lock of hair, the operator in locking the device in the first stage or initial position presses the protector pad somewhat against the scalp while holding the lock of hair slightly tensioned and upon initial locking and release of the clamping device the resiliency of the padsl 3'@ causes the clamping devices to slip upwardly slightly, equalizing the strains and tension on the individual hairs and of course on the scalp.

it will, of course, be understood that various changes may be made in the form, details, arrangement and proportions of the parts, without departing from the scope of my invention, which, generally stated, consists in a device capable of carrying out the objects above set forth, and in the novel parts and combinations of parts disclosed and defined in the appended claims.

What is claimed is:-

1. The method of waving hair upon a human head which consists in dividing 01T from the head of hair a iat lock, initially gripping said lock with a fiat clamp adjacent the scalp and in so doing exerting only sufcient gripping force to retain the clamp to the lock of hair and maintain the arrangement of individual hairs in said lock, re-arranging and distributing the individual hairs unifbrmly while the same are initially gripped, then securing said clam to tightly grip the re-arranged hairs, winding said lock from its end to a point near said clamp upon a rod and treating the wound hair with heat and hair-softening moisture. 2. The steps in the method of waving hair on a human head which consist in dividing o from the head of hair a flat lock, initially clamping said lock adjacent the scalp and in so doing exerting only suiiicient gripping force to maintain the individual hairs in said flat lock arrangement permissive of re-arrangement, re-arranging and distributing the individual hairs while said lock is gripped and tightly gripping the re-arranged lock of hair adjacent the scalp preparatory to winding said lock.

3. In a clamping device for permanent hair waving, a pair of clamping bars having hinged relation adjacent one end of said device and being separable for insertion of a at lock of hair at the opposite end of the device, means for securing said bars together in substantially parallel relation and in two different predetermined positions to exert two different degrees of clamp` ing pressure on the same lock of hair and a protector pad beneath each of said bars and connected therewith, said protector pads being constructed of highly compressible and elastic man terial for urging said bars upwardly from the scalp when the device has been applied with some pressure exerted in the direction of the scalp.

4. In permanent hair waving apparatus a pair of clamping bars having hinged relation, cooperating clamping pads carried by said bars in opposed relation, means for securing said bars together in two diierent predetermined relations and to exert two different degrees of clamping pressure on the same lock of hair, one of said clamping pads being swingably mounted on the bar with which it is connected whereby the clamping surfaces of the opposed pads may be disposed in precise parallel relationship in both of said predetermined, secured positions of said bars.

5. The structure set forth in claim 4 and resilient means for urging the end of said swingable clamping pad adjacent the unhingcd ends of said bars outwardly.

6. In a clamping device for permanent hair waving a pair or" clamping bars having hinged relation adjacent one end of said device and being separable with the other end of the device for insertion of a at lock of hair, means for locking said bars together in substantially parallel relation and in two diierent predetermined positions to exert two different degrees of clamping pressure on the same lock of hair, cooperating clamping pads carried by said bars in opposed relation, one of said clamping pads being mounted in this bar for limited swinging movement relative thereto whereby precise parallel relationshipof the opposed clamping edges of said pads may be obtained in both of said locked positions of said bar and depending protector elements secured to the undersides of said bars and constructed of highly compressible and elastic material to urge the device upwardly from the scalp when said pads are compressed against said scalp and thereby tensioned.

7. The method of waving hair upon a human head which consists in dividing oi from the head of hair a ilat lock, initially gripping said lock with a dat clamp disposed against the scalp and in so doing exerting only sufficient gripping force to retain the clamp to the lock of hair and to maintain the arrangement of individual hairs in said lock, applying resiliently, light upward pressure upon said clamp and lock in a direction away. from the scalp during said initialled gripping and thereby equalizing the strains and tension on the individual hairs of said lock, then securing said clamp to tightly grip the hairs of said lock, winding said lock from its end to a point near said clamp upon a rod and treating the wound hair with heat.

PAUL C. RILLING. 

